New York Fashion Week (NYFW) has always been more than just glitz and glamour—it’s where fashion meets culture, activism, and identity. This year, Pop Couture took center stage as a bold act of defiance, with a few queer and trans designers debuting at their first NYFW and using their collection to push back against censorship and erasure. At a time when Queer and Trans visibility and creative expression face growing scrutiny, these designers transformed the runway into a space of resistance, proving that unapologetic self-expression is power.
Fashion as Resistance: Pop Couture Takes Over NYFW
Pop Couture, presented by Studio|Couture and Plus Ultra Entertainment on February 7, 2025, wasn’t just another NYFW event—it was a movement. Inspired by anime, Japanese craftsmanship, and pop culture, the showcase shattered traditional narratives, redefining who gets to be seen, celebrated, and heard.
Dykemint’s Radical Maximalism: A Love Letter to Subculture & Chaos
For Fi Black, whose work with DYKEMINT embraces radical maximalism, the showcase was an act of defiance. Their NYFW collection—a vibrant mix of color, texture, and gorgeous chaos—told a story of salvaged materials finding new life while emphasizing the importance of sustainability.
DYKEMINT’s creations are one-of-a-kind, positioning themselves as a leader in unique, sustainable, and conscious designs. “This collection is a love letter to forgotten aesthetics, reworked materials, and the art of salvaging what could have been lost, with a postscript dedication to fandom, subculture, and the passionate people within them,” Black said. “Nothing in it will ever exist the same way twice. It’s chaotic; it’s maximalist; it’s a glitch in the system.”
The soundtrack to the collection featured Zoe Leonard’s manifesto I Want a President. As the words “I WANT A DYKE FOR PRESIDENT” echoed through the venue, the message inescapable—this was more than unique garments; it was a fight for visibility, autonomy, and the right to exist without compromise.
“In a time when art is being censored, policed, and commodified beyond recognition, continuing to create is an act of resistance. It’s not just about making clothes—it’s about claiming space, loudly,”
Fi Black of DYKEMINT
The role of glitch culture and sustainability in their designs
“I’m a nonbinary butch designer creating in an industry that still caters to the cishet male gaze. Fashion, at its core, has always been a way to define and defy gender, and yet so much of it is still stuck in binaries. My work doesn’t just reject that—it collages right over it.” Their collection, influenced by glitch culture, embodies a wardrobe caught between timelines—a refusal to conform. “The same systems that try to strip away bodily autonomy also try to dictate how we present ourselves, what is deemed ‘acceptable’ in public, what kinds of expression are ‘appropriate.’ This collection is a direct rejection of all of that.”
Designer: Lê Tâm. Photographed by: @TheInterstellarStudio
Lê Tâm’s ‘The Last Tango in Paris’: A Fusion of Heritage & Modernity
Another standout collection at the showcase was The Last Tango in Paris by Lê Tâm, a fusion of ballroom dance elegance, Parisian style, and traditional Vietnamese influences. Lê Tâm’s collection, inspired by Gotan Project’s song of the same name, captured fluidity and movement, with each piece reflecting a dance between cultures. Frank Huynh’s meticulous craftsmanship showcased his ability to harmonize heritage with contemporary design.
Frank Huynh’s tribute to Vietnamese culture and Parisian elegance
For Huynh, the creative force behind Lê Tâm, fashion is more than just aesthetics—it’s deeply personal. His avant-garde designs preserve Vietnamese heritage while celebrating cultural diversity.
“My work serves as a tangible record of my roots, a means of preserving tradition, and a testament to the richness of diversity in our ever-evolving society.”
Frank Huynh of Lê Tâm
How traditional craftsmanship meets contemporary fashion
Huynh views fashion as an act of cultural preservation. His latest collection at Pop Couture blended craftsmanship with bold storytelling, proving that heritage and rebellion are not opposing forces but two sides of the same coin. Like Black, Huynh believes fashion is more than clothing; it’s a statement of identity, resilience, and the importance of embracing diverse voices.
Designer: Lê Tâm. Photographed by: @TheInterstellarStudioDesigner: Lê Tâm. Photographed by: @TheInterstellarStudioDesigner: Lê Tâm. Photographed by: @TheInterstellarStudio
Through The Last Tango in Paris, Huynh emphasized that tradition and modernity are not in conflict but coexist in an evolving dance, celebrating both the past and the future.
GeeknBoujique’s Fight Against Censorship Through Fashion
In addition to Black and Huynh, for KingKitsu, the designer of GeeknBoujique, the fight against censorship is deeply personal. Having faced forced censorship, he understands the toll it takes. “It’s important for me to continue to create because I’ve gone through forced censorship of my existence. It doesn’t feel good. I was at a point where I just gave up, and honestly, I regret it,” KingKitsu shared.
“Not only is my existence the art, but so is what I create.”
KingKitsu
KingKitsu’s personal battle with erasure and reclaiming space
This theme of resilience is evident in KingKitsu’s debut NYFW collection, a direct response to their experiences.
The designs blend regal and rebellious aesthetics, demanding attention and space while refusing to be overlooked. “Even if I’m censored, somebody is going to see my art. Somebody is going to miss seeing my creations. So, it shouldn’t matter. I should continue to just do me. You never know what the bigger outcome could be,” he said.
Anime, resilience, and the art of defying limitations
The collection also celebrates self-strength and self-love, drawing inspiration from anime heroes and villains as well as the resilience of figures like Megan Thee Stallion. Each piece represents a journey of self-discovery and empowerment, embodying the duality within us all—the hero and the villain, the struggle and the triumph.
As lawmakers and cultural gatekeepers continue to police LGBTQ+ expression, visibility and inclusion, events like Pop Couture remind us that art, fashion, and identity cannot be erased. These designers are not just creating clothes; they are making history—one unapologetic, defiant, and breathtakingly bold piece at a time.
This NYFW, the message was clear: Fashion isn’t just about aesthetics. It’s about survival. And the revolution is being stitched into every seam.
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